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By Chip Simons
29 June 2009
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Light painting has been around since the early 1900s. The old films were so slow (ASA 3) that the photographers would take big lights and paint all over the large objects, such as ships and blimps but I have never found one of those images!
The Red Wave Hand: This is done with a silhouette of my hand in one shot, and then taking Christmas lights...held between two people at either end of the studio, and they spin them around like a jump rope. I then copied and pasted them together in Photoshop.
Fast forward to the early 1970s and I saw a picture in a Time/Life book on âFrontiers in Photographyâ (I think it was) where it showed someone had walked around an apartment hallway and used a flash unit to paint ârectangularâ shaped patterns of the strobe all over.
I immediately borrowed a Vivitar 283 and the gel kit that came with it and started playing around with light painting. I also grabbed anything else I could find that made light, light sparklers, kids toys, and flashlights and a car.
Invisible Tree: This was done for a science magazine for a story about how light can make something invisible. I time exposed the tree for about two minutes...as I stood behind it and backlit the branches...and my assistant (modelling) held another spotlight and lit the tree. I then took a piece of bark from the tree (whitish) and walked towards him slowly as he lit the bark (to make the beam three dimensional) I then cloned out the area where the light hit the tree with a piece of the tree line to the right...to make it invisible.
I grabbed a few friends and we headed to the graveyard where I had them raising from the dead and made their faces floating all over. It was like theater and a âBâ movie all in one frame! I have been light painting since 1977.
How to do paint with light Basically, put your camera on a tripod, set up your image, put your shutter on âBâ and lock it open with a cable release. Begin by setting your camera at ISO 100 or 200, your f-stop at 11, and for digital people, put noise reduction on high (because time exposures cause reciprocity breakdown in film and noise in digital). I use a Nikon D3, and it is the lowest noise digital light-painting I have seen. Set your strobe on âautoâ and begin by leaving in on f/8. The reason I do this is because when I light-paint (I use strobes for speed, freezing things and color and pattern) it is best to stay close to the object you are light-painting, so that you donât âsprayâ light all over the room and wash out your contrast and get ghost images of moving objects (like your scared friends). The eye of the strobe at 18 inches away from a face has a spread that is not wide enough for the eye of the flash to see the center of the exposure, so you are underexposing a stop to keep the center at f/11. Just play around, these are just tips from 30 years of doing this.

Businessman: This is a businessman in front of four foot
seamless paper with a fisheye lens. I lit his face with a hand held
strobe, as well as made a cube pattern with the strobe (1 inch away
from him) down his body. The sparks are done with a lighter and the red
and green lights are done with pin lights with coloured gels taped on
them (pointing at lens)
You will eventually learn that you can open up your f-stop for dim lights and shut down for brighter lights (open for dark blues, etc.) and learn how to judge time. A basic flashlight on a personâs face at f/11 using a 100 ISO film or setting at 18 inches away is about 1 second. A flashlight on a person full length 10 feet from the light is about 15 seconds. It wonât take long to figure it out⊠just play.
The big problem with light painting is ambient light. If you are three feet from a street light⊠Iâd guess you have three seconds to get something done before it starts to really wash out what you do. In a dark room, you can go forever but any light you flash or paint around is bouncing all over the room (light is a particle) and washing out your contrast.
What equipment? Gear-wise, make some colored gels for your lights. Figure out a way to both find them and change them in the dark. I wear a belt with canvas bags for all my lights and gadgets. You need a sturdy tripod, a cable release, and a headlamp so you can check your focus and settings and find things in the dark. You will also need some honeycomb grids or black foil to shape and snoot your lights so you donât spray light all over the place (think of a light as a garden hose with a spray nozzle attached. You do not want all that spray as much as a focused beam⊠stream?). The rest is just trial and error and what is cool about it is it is all good and a learning experience (and really fun)
Car: This is a fisheye lens time exposed for about 45 seconds. I have a powerful strobe behind the car (and under) and a blue strobe inside the car with blue on it. The rest is done with a deer spot light with a honeycomb gel on it..(from about 10 feet away. I ran behind the model and made those patterns with the light (with blue on it)
Some more concepts
- You can change color balances, colored gels, and shoot RAW now and clone and erase later too.
- You can do multiple focuses during exposures. Focus on your hand 8 inches from the lens and focus out to your house afterwards.
- You can use anything that makes light, from deer spot lights, car headlights, emergency flares, boating distress flares (attracts police!) sparklers, cheap flashlights, expensive flashlights, bike safety blinking led lights, key chain LED lights, toys and if you have a friend with a police helicopter with that bright search light on it you could really go to town and light paint a skyscraper or a mountain with a helicopter.
- You can also just set up a still-life shot or have a friend sit still in a room. The cool thing about light painting is you can have multiple angles of light and have the contrast of having a light close to an object without having to have that light hidden out of the frame. It is also fast and easy for complex set ups like setting lights and grids for a rock band in an alleyway would take forever (and they would get irritated and step out of their position anyway) but I can run in with a strobe, light each of their faces in white light then run in and put colors everywhere (stay away from the faces) and I can even get a friend to light the backgrounds with some other lights or use a strobe to blast the background before we begin light painting. Hang out and let the police come and time expose their flashlights too. A normal frame like that would be 45 seconds. I run around like a modern dancer (Timothy Leary called me a shamanistic light dancer) .
- Itâs all good and it is a bit like theater or a movie in one frame. It is also a lot like the same strange feeling that time has past, similar to the old pictures of people from the 1800âs that had to stare at the camera for 2 minutes during exposures, you sense the time passing in the image.
- Put key chain lights on fishing line and spin them around.
- Put sparklers on objects or poles that can be or are moving (golf clubs)
- Put a blinky light on your dog and have them running around the room.
- Get a few flashlights with different types of bulbs so you have different colors.
- Get a super powerful flashlight to do backgrounds and buildings.
- Get a good black ninja outfit together with pockets and a belt system so you donât show up in shots and you can find things and not lay them down in the grass in the dark and loose things.
- Pay your friends in whatever but make sure they have fun and will do it again.
 German Girl Hand: A fisheye lens and a hand held strobe. I lit her face and then lit her hand in red. Then I used a stove starter to make the sparks. This took 15-25 seconds.
Extra! Another cool by-product of light painting is it gives your optic nerve a workout. When your optic nerves get tired, it shuts down your body so an hour of light painting makes you feel like you have been driving cross country in a car for 12 hours at night (remembering to open the shutter is hard).
 Chip Hollywood Chair: This is me, the last person after a wedding party. I lit myself with the strobe and then put blue on it and lit the area and myself. I jumped up and made light patterns with a pinlight. This took about 45 seconds.
Using all the colors in the dark also wreaks havoc on your emotions and the combination of the two by products is a lot like going through a traumatic event all night⊠really⊠itâs physiological. This lends itself to doing very abstract ideas.
Look at some examples of things I have done. Good luck, have fun and try everything at least twice and donât forget to open the shutter or advance the film and light the person you are shooting which happens towards the end every time! |
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By Fotoflock Editorial
25 May 2009
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Water⊠gorgeous to look at but just as hard to shoot. Reflectivity, composition, texture all play a part when shooting water. And then thereâs moving water. Capturing water in motion and being able to show that in a photo is one of the most interesting shots a photographer can take.
Hereâs how you can make them look great:
If you permit the automatic settings in your camera to record moving water, chances are it will opt to use a fast shutter speed to eliminate blur. While this gives an accurate depiction of the moving water, it may not create the tone or texture that is desired.
By adjusting camera settings manually, the appearance of moving water can be made smooth and almost âsoftâ. This is done by choosing a slower shutter speed. If there is adequate light around, you could also choose a slower ISO setting for a more detailed effect. This may require reliance on a tripod to prevent hand shake and blurriness, but the result will be dramatically different than from an automatic settings. The slower the speed of the shutter the blurrier the passing water becomes giving it the softer and opaque appearance.

For blurry water, it is best to begin with one eighth second setting and work down from there, but true smooth water usually is not available until a shutter is open for a full second or more. Also the lower the ISO on the shot, the more likely the image captured is going to be satisfactory. This is where the smallest aperture and highest f/stop will result in the slowest possible shutter speed for the ISO and lighting conditions.
The distance between the camera and the image of water it is capturing changes the effect of shutter speed on the âblurâ factor. The closer the camera is to the water the more quickly the blur is captured. Low lighting may exist within many moving water environments and this too will necessitate slower shutter speeds and even tripods.
It is recommended that you experiment with a few shutter speed settings for moving water, and allow the shutter priority to determine the f-stop and aperture on the image. Record which results you find the most appealing and visit other bodies of moving water to further experiment.
Remember that water flows to the sea shore in large waves and gentle lapping tides, it flows from lawn sprinklers and regularly spurts and erupts from public fountains, so experiment at many types of locations.
Water never looks the same at the same point for long. Be sure to move around, change settings and try some interesting stuff. Water wonât disappoint. And neither will you! |
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By Maitreyee Mangrulkar
22 April 2009
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Photo by Ajay Verma While shooting portraits remains a favourite with most amateurs because of the ease of capturing a known face, the freedom of making the subject move as you like to suit the background, lighting and other details is also an added advantage. However, things may work out just the other way round when shooting kids.
Capturing angelic faces and innocent moves will remain a delightful and enjoyable experience for most amateur as well as professional photographers. Of course with hordes of people out there who, freeze from their regular lively beings to statues when faced with a lens, this is exactly what kids are least likely to do and which makes the shoot more interesting and the resulting images of course are a delight.
While we speak about the ease with which the subject in a portrait can be moved we cannot deny the fact that children, any years of age continue to be unrivalled spontaneous models. Kids as models can ensure the most spontaneous, natural and candid images. However a consistent result of these candid images banks or rests on simple photography techniques.
We spoke to a few photographers to give you quick and easy tips for this delightful exercise of shooting kids. .

Photo by Kumar
Swapan Mukherjee who is a famous fashion photographer maintains, âMay it be a grown up or a kid it is always important to break the ice.â While the exercise of breaking the ice with the kids might not be a long one, what with all the exuberant energy in children but Swapan also points out the painful part, âIt is essential that the shoot is taking place when the child is in the best of his moods. Also, when shooting with children one canât really expect them to pose so these will be photo shoots where the photographer will have to follow the subject around. Patience is a virtue in these shoots. One has to be patient when dealing with toddlers.â
While Swapan mentions the need to follow the little subject around, Sameer Belwalkar suggests, âThere are some kids who may even surprise you with their skills at posing but if you are shooting the kinds you need to follow around to get a shot then it is best to keep a high shutter speed because you are bound to get a lot of shots in motion and keeping a high shutter speed will help avoid blurred images.â
Another trick that works for Swapan when shooting kids, âI try to get down to their level and may be for a fleeting moment see life the way they do and try and understand what goes on in the little mind of theirs. One can offer chocolates or other goodies to gain confidence or even act funny.â

Photo by Partha Sarathi Bose
âBribe them all the way, shoots can be made an easy task when shooting with the kidsâ favourite toys. I, on most occasions ask parents to carry the kidsâ favourite toys or may be even dress them in their favourite clothes!â Sameer adds.
While Swapan talks about breaking the ice with children Vickky Idnaani goes a step further to make sure the kid can be convinced to do what he wants. He says, âThe mothers are the best judges of how the photograph has turned out. They are also the ones who know the kid very well and can make them do the cute little things that these toddlers do and can be captured to make a wonderful image. I think it is primarily important to capture the innocence and the energy of the child.â
And how does one make a choice between indoor and outdoor shoots? To which he is quick to respond, âNot that a studio shoot cannot be as successful as an outdoor one, but children are bound to get a little more conscious when in a studio. When outdoors they are in the best of their moods and energy levels remain high as well. Finally it boils down to the photographerâs interaction skills with the kid!â  Photo by Kumar
Sameer on the other hand firmly mentions a priority list on locations for shooting the young ones, âIn my opinion it is best to shoot kids in their own house if possible. When in their own turf they might not even mind a stranger clicking their photographs, outdoors can also be a good option and studio should always be left as the last one.â
âKids are bound to get frenzied and scared with the flashing lights, prompting, etc. shooting with their favourite toys or in their favourite clothes can not only work as a bribe but a little familiarity works for them and makes them comfortable as they attach security to their belongings like these!â
Hope these tips come in handy for all the parents to be, new parents and any one who would love to get a cherubic shot! |
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By Aditya Kuber
20 April 2009
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Itâs all too simple these days with point-and-shoot cameras. But even with these, a little care can go a long way. Find out five common problems that you will encounter. This is how to avoid them or cure them! Take print and carry it around.
Problem: Lackluster composition
An ordinary landscape view can be turned into a stunning photo. One that could adorn calendars or even magazine pages. Just some movement of composition could make it happen.
Tip 1: The Rule of Thirds is a time-honored technique professional photographers use to improve composition. Imagine a tic-tac-toe grid over the image you want to take. Use the intersection of those lines to place your subject slightly off center, and bring interest up or down.
Tip 2: Take photos at various angles and distances to give you more options to choose from. Also experiment with vertical and horizontal camera orientationâyou may discover that this simple shift yields interesting results.
Tip 3: Eliminate distracting background clutter by getting closer to your subject. Or try using your cameraâs Portrait pre-set mode. This will keep objects close to you in focus, while blurring the background. You can achieve the same effect, known as a shallow depth of field, by manually adjusting your aperture setting to a low f-number, such as f2.8.
Problem: Poor lighting Digital photography is all about catching that magic moment when the light is just right. But lighting also provides some challenges. These tips will help, whether youâre indoors or out.
Tip 1: Balance bright or dim lightDigital cameras get âconfusedâ by unbalanced conditions, such as a very bright or dim light, causing the camera to under or over expose your photo. In low light conditions, try using your cameraâs night shooting mode, or lower the ISO to 50 or 100 to get rich detail in low light. Use a tripod, or steady yourself against a stable object to avoid moving the camera. In bright light, try your cameraâs Beach or Sunshine mode, or manually choose a fast shutter speed to control the amount of light that comes in.
Photo by Vinnce Tip 2: Shooting indoorsAvoid using your flash. Instead, provide as much natural light as possibleâopen curtains, or even the door. Or use lamps to add light to the scene. Your flash mutes color and casts stark, deep shadows that are especially unflattering in portraits. Donât place your subject in front of a bright window or they will become a silhouette (although this can be a nice effect when done intentionally). Try placing them off to the side instead, or facing a natural light source.
Tip 3: Shooting outdoorsTry to have the sun behind you when you shoot. This will provide the most flattering light to your subject. Shoot early or later in the dayâdawn and dusk provide lovely light, whereas midday light can be harsh. Take advantage of overcast days for photography. Thatâs when the light is even, and casts almost no shadows.
Problem: Red-eye The appearance of glowing red eyes can ruin a portrait of even the cutest child or pet. The red color comes from light reflecting off of the retinas in our eyes. The following quick tips can help get the red out.
Tip 1: Try not to use a flash if possibleâit is the number one cause of red-eye. Instead, turn on lights or open curtains to add additional light to your scene.
Tip 2: Ask your subject to look toward the camera but not directly at the lens or to look into a bright light first.
Tip 3: Stand farther away from your subject.
Tip 4: Take advantage of in-camera red-eye removal. Many digital cameras and photo printers now allow you to remove red-eye or prevent it altogether. Check your digital cameraâs manual to see if it includes these features.
Photo by Sushant S Acharekar
Problem: Blurry photos While a photo with a dramatic blur can often be artistic (as above), it can also render a subject incomprehensible. Here are some ways to add clarity to your digital photographs.
Tip 1: Reduce shutter lag. The time between pressing the trigger and the camera taking the picture is called shutter lag, and it can cause blurry pictures. Avoid it by pressing the trigger halfway down until youâre ready to shoot. When the right moment comes, press the rest of the way. This strategy is great when you're taking pictures of people (especially kids) or animals. ?
Tip 2: Minimize camera shake. Even the slightest camera movement can cause unclear photos. Use a tripod or brace yourself against a stationary object to hold the camera still. Some digital cameras come with image stabilization, another way to get clear images of moving subjects.
Tip 3: Use your digital cameraâs Action shooting mode for sports or other action shots. It automatically optimizes your shutter speed to help capture motion. Or manually increase your cameraâs shutter speed to achieve the same effect?
Photo by Sushant S Acharekar
Problem: Low-quality prints If you plan to print your photographs using a digital photo printer, keep resolution in mind. Resolution is measured in megapixels (MP), and matching the resolution to the print size will help you get clear digital photo prints. Look for detail in photos (like the one above) and your prints should also be on high-quality paper and printer (like the ones Epson makes) for best results.
Tip 1: If you plan to enlarge or crop photos before printing, itâs best to shoot at the highest resolution possible. But high-resolution pictures take up more memory.
Tip 2: If you plan to e-mail images or print smaller sizes, like 4" x 6" or 5" x 7" photos, you can stick to 4-5 MP with no problems.
Tip 3: Many digital cameras let you select the resolution level, so you can determine ahead of time whether you want to shoot a big file with lots of detail, or a quick snapshot you can post to a website or e-mail to friends and family. |
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By Anna Pande
30 March 2009
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There is no rule in photography that your subject has to be clearly identifiable. Abstract photography, for example, consciously strives to create an image without a clear subject.
In other words, abstract photography denotes something that can be interpreted but not seen. The attraction of abstract photography is that it asks us to look beyond the obvious and find a new meaning for ourselves.
For those who are interested in abstract colour photography, where do you look to for inspiration? The answer is simple: all around you! Abstract photography can transform even the most (seemingly) mundane of objects. Pioneer colour photographer Ernst Haas, one of the masters of abstract colour photography, enjoyed shooting peculiarly shaped fragments of peeling paint, torn billboard posters, and even crushed beer cans. Another master of abstract photography, Pete Turner, finds inspiration in subjects as ordinary as plastic garbage cans and beach umbrellas. Look around your home â your kitchen cupboards, your fruit bowl, your jewellery are all potential subjects. If you venture outside, neon shop signs, street lights, traffic lights, modern buildings and wet pavements all create interesting combinations of lights and colour which are just asking to be shot! 
Photo by Johnbasco
Another great place to look is the natural world e.g. flowers, rivers, trees. The key to finding subjects for abstract photography is understanding that the world is full of patterns and colours and therefore images!
In much abstract colour photography, the colour, rather than the subject, becomes the dominant element in the composition, as in the following photograph of hot air balloonsâŠ
Photo by Anupam Pal
Various techniques can be used to achieve this effect. For example, zooming in on the subject can isolate interesting colour combinations which become subjects in their own right. These photographs work best if you can frame the shot so that the subject is not immediately recognizable. This can be done by showing the subject from an unusual viewpoint, using a longer lens or even a macro lens. In the following photographs, the subject is not obvious at first (or even second) glance. The first is of an umbrella but what is the second? Coat-hangers perhaps? The fact that we cannot be sure doesnât matter; in fact, it adds to the photo as we are forced to treat it not as an ordinary true-to-life photo but as a work of art.

Photo by: Samiran Paul In the following photo, the mass of red dominates the picture; it is only when we look closer that we realise it is a shot of red, autumn leaves.
Photo by: Sangeeta Das
Once you have chosen your subject, you can make it even more interesting. Try spraying water on it â wet surfaces produce fascinating patterns, colours and reflections, as in the shot of a wet pavement given above. Also try varying your lighting by using different colour filters. If you use a digital camera, filters can be added later using Photoshop. Alternatively, de-saturate your image to black and white and then adding a little colour to bring out key aspects of the image. And remember that you need not be limited by the colour combinations you find around you. Try mixing different colours of poster paint on a plate and then shooting them using a 100mm macro lens; youâll be amazed at the results! In the following photograph the photographer has created her own colour combinations using what appear to be coloured inks: 
Photo by: Sangeeta Das Another common method used in abstract photography is blurring. In the following photograph, the photographer used a slow shutter speed (1/3 sec) to transform an everyday image into something out of a dream: -
Photo by: Sandeep Roy
It is not always essential to give any structure to the arrangement of colours within the frame â what is essential is that the result is comfortable on the eye. Having said that, do bear in mind the points discussed in my previous article on how to use the colour wheel. Notice how, in the photo below, the complementary colours magenta and cyan are used to create a colour combination that is pleasing on the eye: 
Photo by: Sanath PC
Last of all, it is important to understand that abstract photography, like abstract art, is subjective and open to various interpretations. Therefore donât take it too personally if someone doesnât like your photos; it is likely that someone else will! The important thing is that your photos so challenge the viewer to see beyond the obvious. Iâll leave you with some comments from a Fotoflock member on one of her photos. As these comments prove, the great thing about abstract colour photography is that, instead of representing the real world, it encourages you to step into a new one. 
Photo by: Sangeeta Das
"RED shrieked and BLUE fainted. While GREEN tried to revive her, BLACK stood in the corner, sombre, WHITE sat down to meditate. YELLOW laughed at the fracas, PURPLE started solving the mystery and PINK got busy calming us with sweet charm. What will I do with them, I thought. Can't leave them, can't live without them. But how I wish they wouldn't turn my life upside down."
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